written by Alessandra Piubello
A land of stark contrasts. Blood land between two seas. Sun and blinding. Wild and older. Rough, hard and parched, the heel of Italy of which does not seem to be part of it. Anchored to the ancient rhythms of past civilizations, from the arcane symbolism. Dominated by colorful luminous landscapes, whipped by the wind, covered by rows of vineyards. Salento, homeland of Negroamaro, grown almost exclusively here, almost disappeared elsewhere. Its soils are mainly calcareous clay, the most suitable: terroir with hot, dry climate ideal for grape give life to the best expressions of this variety. Despite not having certain information about its origins, perhaps from the Balkans, one can reasonably say that its cultivation date back to the Greek colonization in the eighth century BC, when the Salento was still populated by Messapians. It seems that just about ships that invaded the Adriatic coast were traveling the first cuttings of Negroamaro.
And now, question: you say, a vine can transform into music? Negroamaro is successful, and not just in the glass. Well knew the musicians salentini that now tread the stages of the world, when its owner decided to band in his honor. The derivation of its name, however, is controversial, and there are two main interpretations. The first depends on the local dialect and, more specifically, from niurumaru, meaning bitter black; This term embodies a description of the wine of the past, dark and slightly bitter (bittering notes are not found nearly as today, however, due to the use of wood). A second explanation, however, is inclined to source classic and, more specifically, by the terms niger and mavros which, respectively, means black in Latin and greek: therefore, Negroamaro would not be nothing more than repeat the Italianized black-black.
Currently in Puglia Negroamaro is present in as many as 14 Dop (about 28 total), vinified both alone and in blends with other varieties, particularly with fellow always, Malvasia Nera and Sussumaniello. Moreover rarely well with Primitivo, with whom he contends more challenges, in terms of hectares of vineyards in the region: from the latest data, (AGEA 2012), the difference is a few hectares: 11,760 hectares for the Primitivo, Negroamaro 11,392 for the .
A research conducted by the Faculty of Medicine, University of Bari, highlighted in Negroamaro high amount of total polyphenols (greater than Primitivo), thereby posing in light of their anti-inflammatory properties and antioxidants. The traditional system of farming sapling of Puglia, which guarantees an excellent quality if properly managed, unfortunately at a high cost, have over time assisted systems espalier (cordon) high density which allow good results. In the past, Negroamaro, for its massive cultivation, he was known only as a blending wine, often used to improve the wines of northern Italy with its intense color and its structure alcoholic. But thanks to the work of some producers who have quality care, this variety has managed to create a space for primary, thus demonstrating its expressive organoleptic characteristics, coming to get prestigious awards in the Italian and international wine competitions and guides.
The wine creates, alone or accompanied, the reputation of many of the best wines of Salento here is the fresh and tasty rosé, with or without bubbles; reds that are declined in modern variations, balanced and pleasant to drink, but also in more traditional versions structured, powerful and intense, ripe tannins, elegant fabric and soft, spicy, balsamic, empireumatiche and ripe fruit. It can also lend itself to late harvests or overripe personality and sunshine the whole Mediterranean. Versatile and dynamic, intense, brilliant and presents garments with shades from antique pink to coral or dark ruby color with nice thickness. And, on the pinky from Negroamaro, we must recognize the primacy of Salento: the Five Roses de Castris, in 1943, was the first rosé bottled in Italy.
A beautiful story to tell, to which must be added that many of the best producers in the area. In particular, thanks to the Consortium Movimento Turismo del Vino Puglia, the Puglia Region and the City of Cupertino, we could taste the Negroamaro Cantine Cupertinum, Moros, Cantele, Bonsegna, fiefs Guagnano, Petrelli, Castello Monaci, Tenuta Mater Domini, Leone de Castris, Palamà, Due Palme, Masseria Altemura, Paolo Leo, Apollonio. Making sure that it goes well with the cuisine of Puglia: with Ciceri e tria (chickpea soup and similtagliatelle, of which a portion fried), cecamariti (soup of dried peas with fried bread and black cabbage or turnip greens), bits of horse meat sauce, mashed beans with chicory, capocollo Martina Franca on a slice of bread of Altamura or Laterza, cheese Itria Valley or burrata d'Andria, pignata of grass pea, orecchiette with turnip tops, friselle with fresh tomato. The Salento Negroamaro is how to Lecce stone is the Baroque.
Both the grape is the famous golden boulders are a gift of this generous 'heel' of Salento, and both represent two successful expressions of the territory. A trip to Salento, not only for the food and wine, to be lived: in this land of saints and sailors who unites the sacred to the profane. Energy concentrated so much in whites as sanctuaries in the long fingers of dark nights tarantolate. Place of tales of the other world with saints such as Saint Joseph of Cupertino and stories of celluloid, with films shot in this beautiful natural setting. Copyright works in a variety of creative languages on a stage waiting for his public twelve months a year for a show that leaves no disappointments.
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